Stony Lonesome Barbera 2015: $18 Good

Stony Lonesome makes the only Barbera in the Finger Lakes.  This grapevine is not fond of harsh Finger Lakes winters, and seems to produce only sporadically.  The Stony Lonesome “Estate Reserve” Barbera (Finger Lakes, NY) 2015 $18 [Good] has the high acidity and very dark color typical of the grape.  Although alcoholic (14%, which ordinarily means ripe grapes), this bottle is marked by green stemmy notes and relatively modest fruit flavors.  High acidity and bitterness make it unsuitable for sipping.  If you want to give it a try, drink it with simple foods such as pizza and burgers.

Dark violet in color, the Barbera smells of blackberry preserves and black cherry, accented by milk chocolate, charcoal and green stems.  Medium bodied, dry, round and satiny, with high acidity, balance is good.  Flavors of black berries, black cherry, charcoal, graphite, green stems, and a light-to-moderate bitter note have moderate intensity, but not much crowd appeal.  The finish turns increasingly bitter and quite tart, with average length.  March 2017


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© Douglas Hillstrom 2014