Dr. Konstantin Frank “Old Vine” Pinot Noir 2015: $22 Fair

With old vines to work with, one might think Dr. Frank’s Pinot Noirs would be special.  Unfortunately, none of these wines have scored better than “fair,” from 2012 to the present.  All of the wines have suffered from wine flaws (too much volatile acidity, in particular).  The Dr. Konstantin Frank “Old Vines” Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes, NY) 2015 $22 [Fair] is probably the best to date, but this is not much of an accolade.  Stern in temperament, with too much sour acetic acid and a tannic bitter finish, this wine requires food. 

Light ruby in color, the Dr. Frank has aromas of tart red fruit, spice, lead pencil, and sour acetic acid.  Medium bodied, with very harsh grippy tannins that reach to the back of the throat, this wine reminds me of a young Aglianico from Italy.  Luckily, with aeration the tannins moderate and are much less severe.  Flavors of sour red fruit, spice, lead pencil and a substantial jot of bitterness have some substance but are undermined by bitter tannins and sourness.  The finish is quite tannic, notably sour and distinctly bitter.  Bitter and sour flavors linger.  March 2017


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© Douglas Hillstrom 2014