Forge “Sawmill Creek Vineyard” Dry Riesling 2016: $24 Excellent

The Forge Cellars “Sawmill Creek Vineyard” Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes, NY) 2016 $24 [Excellent] is a powerhouse wine, with deep flavors and the sort of stony muscularity that typifies many of the best wines of this drought year.  This is a bottle that should keep and improve for a long time.  Although bone dry, the flavors have a kind of milky/honeyed sweetness, so it can be sipped or served with richer foods.

Dark yellow in color, the big aromas feature honeyed apple fruit, tart apricot, lemon/lime, yeasty lees and an herbal/floral note that is hard to pin down.  The back label suggests “nettles."  Plump, full bodied, and mouth filling, there is a bit of chalky tannin as well as some prickly acidity, which becomes better integrated with air.  The Sawmill has an almost brawny mouth feel.  Balance is very good.  Flavors of apricot, ripe apple, honey, lemon/lime and milky lees have excellent concentration and purity.  The finish turns chalkier and more mineral, with a blast of apricot fruit in the very long finish.  March 2018


© Douglas Hillstrom 2014